[GG] Water Aerobics

Cesky Krumlov

June 11, Saturday

We took the late morning 2 hr train ride from Pragueto Cesky Krumlov, a fairytale-like little Czech village on the southern border of the Republic. We fondly abbreviate it “Krumlov” because “Cesky” refers to Czech & we're still in a very Czechered area, but there is only one Krumlov. Our taxi took us to the Hotel Gold, a quaint little hotel located right on the river. We had a charming room with 2 twin beds & a sofa bed. Bee got the sofa sleeper this time. I finally had a bed near a window. We had a very spacious bathroom with a long, narrow tub and instant hot water.

We dropped our things, locked the door, and headed into the old town. Along the way we heard live music coming from a courtyard. Thinking there might be a wedding, we stopped in to watch. No wedding, but nice local music. We walked on, across a little bridge and into a fairyland. It was like the streets from Brigadoon, but only this was in Czech Republic. After making arrangements to canoe on the river the next morning, we explored uphill and down through the alleyways of the town. Bee found a church and was hoping to attend Saturday evening mass, only to be scurried out. Either they recognized she is not Catholic or they did not have services that night, whichever, she joined Cee & I for the perfect last meal in the Czech Republic.

We found a great restaurant overlooking the river, with a grill and outside seating. Did the sign on our table say “Reserved”? Well, yes, but not until 8PM and it was only 6:30. We were fine. As has been our style, we each ordered something different so that we could share. Grilled Camembert with cranberry sauce to begin, I had the “chef's surprise”, Cee had the house special chicken skewers, and Bee had another of the house specialties. We did not have Ribeye steaks. Big mistake. The table of 8 biker guys next to us all had the grilled ribeye & it looked FANTASTIC. Reluctant to barter an exchange we enjoyed our dinners, preceded by a delicious variety of hot ciders. And again a friendly dog at dinner – a Rhodesian Ridgeback. So far dogs have been everywhere, trains, trams, on the streets, in restaurants, etc. Europe, at least from what we've, is very doggy friendly.

We looked at the castle and its beautiful tower from a distance, hoping that tomorrow after our river trip we would hike up for a closer look. To this day, the interior of the castle remains a mystery to us, for unbeknownst to us we would never make it back in time from our adventure.

The next morning we were up to an early breakfast and checkout so that we could be at the boat rental shop to get our 3-gal inflatable canoe and get started on our great river adventure. It had rained during the night and early morning, which only meant that there would be fewer people on the water. Our instructions went something like this: “Ok. Now, one sits in the back and one sits in the front, each on their knees. This keeps your center of gravity lower so the canoe is less likely to tip over. The old girl gets the middle and other than stand up, it doesn't matter what she does. Now, head out to the right and just before you get to the first dam, paddle over to the bank and let the grandmother out so she can watch you go over the dam. Then pull over for her and let her climb back in. Call us when you get to the 2^nd dam. Good luck.” With 3 paddles, we 3 excited girls, and a blow-up boat full of enthusiasm but no real knowledge of what we had gotten ourselves into, we set off.

About 5 minutes into the current, we could see the dam. Pull over, pull over. And we did. I crawled out of the boat with my paddle and the important things we carried in a dry-sack, scurried onto the path above the river and directed my grandchildren back into the belly of the beast. They lined themselves up properly and with paddles only skimming the water to keep themselves aligned they made it over the dam and the rough water fizzing and churning at its base. Granted it was only about a 2' drop, but when you're new to this type of thing it isn't the size of the drop its the sizzle in the fizzle that can overturn your boat. Thankfully, the girls handled it like masters.

Once I was back in the boat we continued down the river. We were to cover about 9 miles in 4 hours but that distance, I'm sure is as the crow flies. We are not crows. We were more like the ball in a pin-ball machine: Left bank, right bank, to the middle and spin. Clockwise. Counter clock and back to the side. Sccrrrruuuuubbbbbbb the boat squealed as we scraped bottom and found ourselves stuck atop one of the river's many speed-bumps. “Quick,” yelled the captain, “use your oars, girls, more power. And now, scoot your butts, rock back and forth (the captain's technique for getting us off the sand bar and rocks) Oops. We're headed backward down the river. Ahhhh. It seems to be working. We are actually making some headway, so to speak, and we can see where we've been. A real advantage. Suddenly the boat bolted from our grasp and began to spin again. The captain became frustrated at this little boat that was getting the best of us. Again, to the right bank, then the left, then spin twice. And change. Our first captain, Cee, gave up in despair to put Bee in command.

At first, this looked like a good move as Bee initially seemed to keep us in a straight line. “Right paddle. Left paddle”, she called out. Things were looking up. Our little boat seemed to know there was a new captain at the helm and we moved forward down the stream. Then suddenly we were veering to the right, or at least one end of the boat seemed determined so. “Paddle harder”, our captain cried. “...less Cee. More GeeGee!” but no matter, our bow was headed in one direction, our stern the other. Or so it seemed. I couldn't stop laughing while the captain yelled for more paddle in the water, “faster” she yelled. She tried to yell out a rhythm which only brought me to hysterics, despite Cee telling me that it wasn't funny. “Stop laughing.” And finally in desperation, “Shut Up, Grandma.” I couldn't do anything but laugh. Telling me to be quiet while the boat was spinning simply sent me into hysterics. Even the bunny was part of the fray.

“OK. You're up, grandma.” Those were the final words that put me in the back of the boat as captain. It was my turn. I tried to warn them that this was not an especially good idea. But onward, with me still laughing like a madwomen and the boat careening first to one bank and then the other, finally settling into a slow steady counter-clockwise spin. Delightful, I say and we finally all settled into the rhythm of the river, spinning, spinning, ever spinning until miles later we spotted the 2^nd dam. Freedom. We delivered ourselves from the river and waited for our ride to carry us back upstream to Krumlov. Another perfect day except for the castle which must be left to another time.