[GG] Savoring Salzburg

Salzburg

June 15, 16, 17

I think we loved Salzburg instantly. We had minimal problem finding our Hotel Mozart within a 20 minute walk of the train station (hauptbahnhoff, as we're learning to call it). We were greeted with a jovial “Guten tag...hello!) from our animated, impish hotel clerk. If we were in Ireland, I would have thought him to be a leprechaun. But we are in Austria, so I'm not sure what he is other than delightful.

During the check-in process he provided us with a map, recommendations for dinner, and ideas for sightseeing, all the time with a little bounce to every step he took behind the desk.

Up to our quaint little room to drop off our things and we were off exploring. Bailey and I have decided tonight is Wienerschnitzel night so after wandering a short way on the cobblestone streets we stopped in at the highly recommended “Old Fox” for dinner. The anticipation of Wienerschnitzel proved to be better than the actual wiener.... but Courtnie was quite happy with her breakfast skillet (or at least that's what it looked like to me with a skillet of fried egg, potatoes, peppers, and more.

The next day we explored the castle, modern art museum, a couple of churches, and platz (town squares). The views from the castle (they're always on a hill) were wonderful. Salzburg is in a narrow valley and a river meanders through it. Steady current, sage green. The hillsides in the foreground give way to jagged peaked mountaintops in the background, the greens yielding to purples. There are patches of green grass surrounded by forest and we were told that the Sound of Music was filmed here. There's no doubt that it was as you can almost hear Julie Andrews singing and see her twirling on the open hillside. The “Goatherder” song keeps playing in my head – a continuous loop I can't seem to shake. We stop for a few minutes to listen to an acoustic guitarist playing in the Residenzplatz. He is gray haired, intent on his music, and exceptional. Cee & Bee decide to buy one of his CD's, remarkable in that we really haven't bought anything we're not consuming during our travels: water, juice, cheese, salami, chocolate, and local alcohol.

Two twenty minute walks uphill divided by a cable car ride up a steep mountain. 700 steps up; 700 steps down. Freezing cold. All that adds up to the adventure into the largest ice cave in the world – Eisriesenweldt. This is located in Werfen, a 30 minute train ride from Salzburg. We've entered the mountains and we can see snow on the mountaintops in the distant. I am a little anxious about this adventure. Steps up, well anything up, has not been my forte, and I am nervous that any necessary rest stops for me will prove to be a drag on Cee & Bee's experience. It's not that I haven't been preparing. I have been taking the stairs rather than the elevator in each of our hotels as well as when we were on the ship and we have been walking extensively almost every day. I hope I'm ready. On the train to Werfen I meditate and try to calm myself. Cee & Bee, recognizing my anxiety reassure me. Once at the ticket station (19 euros/person) I look for other people my age or older. No success. Once we are on the trail up to the cave entrance, I scan each person coming down: are they older? Do they look like they are in similar shape? Oh, Oh. That person is covered in sweat. What will that mean for me?

Once at the cave entrance somehow C & I end up in front of the line, just behind the guide. Cee is given a small oil lamp and every fourth or fifth pair is given a similar lamp. They each emit one small flame, as though carrying a birthday candle, one, into the cave. The guide issues instructions, opens the door closing the cave and instantly we are hit with a blast of wind as the cold air of the cav rushes out to the warmer air outside. And we enter and shortly begin to climb. The ice surrounding the stairs is a frozen waterfall frozen in the tumble to a lake, 24 feet thick. The ceilings and walls sparkle with frost.

As we continue to climb, the icicles take on various shapes like an elephant and another formation looks like a whale. When illuminated by the magnesium coil the guides carry they glow light blue. And we continue to climb, our steepest a 45 degree angle. I huff a little, puff a little, but I am making it and enjoying it. After 700 steps up, there are a few ramps across the frozen ponds, and then 700 steps back down, passing through a tunnel of ice, made by nature, enlarged by man. We are wearing socks on our hands, being bereft of gloves, and the socks were fine to keep our hands warm and allow me to use the metal rails for guidance. Bee moves out ahead of the group, without a torch, searching for darkness. I think it would be pretty cool to have everyone blow out their lamps, but the guides are trying to keep us together and moving as another group is behind us. They do not allow cameras because photo stops would slow us down & spread us out too much.

Emerging from the cave we are propelled forward by the wind and awestruck by the panoramic view of the mountains and the town of Werfen below. A brief stop for pictures then back down the mountain to catch the bus and then the train back to Salzburg.

There is a drink Cee & I have found which compels us to return day after day to the same restaurant. It is a Holler-weitzawein-spritzer, made with white whine, sparkling mineral water, Holler syrup, and fresh mint. It is served with ice in a large wine glass. It is amazingly refreshing and slightly sweet. We love it. 2 glasses each of these & a bowl of soup & we call it dinner.

Aufwiedersehen, Salzburg.