Dubrovnik
July 4
It was hard to leave Korcula and our cute & comfortable little apartment, however, we had plans for three nights in Dubrovnik. A couple of hours by ferry, where we were met at the pier by Darko, our landlord's son who graciously came to pick us up at Port Gruz and dropped us at the Pile (pee-lay) Gate to the walled city. There his mother, Anka who calls everyone “Dahlink” and fancies herself as Zsa Zsa Gabor, led us into the old city and onto one of the narrow streets, up, up, and up the stone stairs to our apartment building, which she says is about 500 years old. Once again we are on the top floor, but this time we had to climb only two flights of stairs. Our apartment is spartan, one double bed, 1 twin, small night stand and table, tv on the wall, portable air conditioner on the wall & a small bathroom. It was basic and clean & came well recommended by Trip Advisor. Because we're here in high season, we are paying about $180/night for a room that is worth $40/night. Location & timing are everything.
Staying inside the walls of the old city adds a whole new dimension to Dubrovnik. It is very alive and noisy with people of all ages strolling the Stradun or main street and young people crowding into the pubs and restaurants. There is loud music, disco lights, & pillows on the stairs for the butts of those with a drink & a cigarette who are part of the party scene. All the streets are rock tiles. All the streets that are perpendicular to the Stradun and run upward from the sea are characterized by a narrow, alleyway feel, and rocky steps and stairs making each trip to and from a cardio work out.
Dubrovnik's appeal is its ambiance & the uniqueness of this walled, ancient city. Inside it is vibrant with souvenier shops, trendy dress shops, restaurants, pubs, a few small hotels, and street upon street of sobe (apartments).
On our first night, a pianist was giving a concert in front of the 18th century Roman Baroque Cathedral. On our last night, we went to an outdoor movie – Jennifer Aniston & Adam Sandler – very funny movie & being out, under the stars, within the walls of the old city – a night to remember.
The city is more than 500 years old and especially flourished during the 15th & 16th centuries. The war of the early 1990's devastated the town, with evidence still apparent of the shelling that occurred. A lot has been repaired. Most of the red tiled roofs appear to be new. But a few of the buildings have not been rebuilt. On a rainy morning we walked on the walls around the city and in the afternoon took the cable car up the mountain where we could look down and get a different perspective.. It is very picturesque.
Dubrovnik visitors are from all over the world and some were very helpful. An Irishman named Joe had been to Dubrovnik on many occasions and readily gave us his restaurant recommend-ations for within the walled city. It was a little odd, but his two favorites had physiological associations: Lady PiPi (not pie-pie) and PuPo (yup). We did the PiPi - a tiny little restaurant at the top of our narrow street. We could see out over the city rooftops from our table - which we waited for about 2 hours to get - and had a wonderful dinner of grilled meats, roasted vegetables, and PiPi goulash. We left the Pupo to another time.
While staying in Dubrovnik we took a day trip to the island of Mljet. There is a national park on one end of this island, through which we did some hiking & then took a boat out on the lake that is on the island, to an island within the lake. There we swam in the beautiful, warm, blue, clear water. It was a great relief from the heat of the day.
Our pace has slowed way down while we've been in Croatia. Maybe it is the beautiful Adriatic or island life. I am not sure, but it has been very enjoyable. Korcula Town was my favorite.
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