Korcula

July 1 -4

Krilo Catamaran - 2 ½ hours from Split to the island of Korcula (“KOR choola”), landing in Korcula Town, where we are greeted by Pero, our landlord. He assists with the luggage & we walk into the walled town of Korcula to Apartments Lenni, conveniently located up a quiet side street. We have quick introductions to his wife Lenni & then climb the 5 flights of stairs to our small studio apartment at the top. It is absolutley delightful! It is bright and cheery, sitting just under the peaked roof of the 550 year old building. Pero and Lenni spent 28 years rebuilding / remodeling into 6 or 7 apartments, and we definitely have the niceset. We have sky lights, windows that open wide with a view of the sea if you stick your head out & look left, a washer, clothes line outside the window, kitchen, oven, frig, queen size bed and a small single bed right under the air conditioner. We have a nice stereo sound system, fire place (nice to look at), and a very large flat screen tv we are unlikely to turn on. This place comes highly rated by Rick Steve's and I can really see why.

We're off to explore this little Dubrovnik and have dinner at a little table overlooking the sea. We have 3 nights here, but Korcula Town is the kind of place we could easily spend a month, relaxing, writing, reading, enjoying the water. The sea is a beautiful blue, with pine trees and oleanders in bloom going right down to the rocky banks on the water. There are lots of small and not so small sail boats and motor boats moored at the various marinas. July & August are the busiest months, but tourist season runs from May/June to mid September. Pero tells me that from November to May there are only about 4,000 residents left on the island as many shops, restaurants & other business close down when the tourists leave. This year he is taking his wife to China for 3 weeks in November, then will spend early next year driving around Europe for a month or two.

Cee was interested in taking wind surfing lessons & I was interested in jet skis, but we never quite got it together. We spent one day on Hvar, an island only 1 ½ hours away by ferry. I forgot my drivers license, but the girls had theirs and rented mopeds. 6 hours, $48, for 2 bikes. It's the best bargain we've encountered. Off they go to explore the island while I explored the beaches. While I was sitting on some rocks jutting into the water, I saw a man exiting the water with something dangling from his hand. As he walked, he was saying, “Ow! Ow! Ow” and holding his hand out, away from his body. I got up & went over, realizing as I got closer that his hand was bleeding as an octopus was biting him. He had caught the octopus while snorkeling (although, really the octopus caught him) and he brought it up to take a picture. Once he had his photos, he threw the octopus back into the water. Once he was rid of the octopus, he didn't seem bothered by the bite.

The beaches are rocky and entry into the water is more comfortable in shoes than barefoot. The water is a little chilly at first, but it is so clear, so blue it is impossible not to go in. I walked as far as I could go on the little beach walk way & then turned and headed back into town. Near the Hotel Amfora, there are a lot of 20-30 year olds enjoying the sun. This island is known for it's party atmosphere at night & I am pretty sure this is the hub.

I am sure I spotted the Housewives of Somewhere. They & their husbands had apparently charted the Carpe Diem, a 150 ft luxury yacht - $175,000/week. Four loud couples, all loud and out-talking one another. They didn't seem to mind calling attention to themselves and while the men drank and ate, the girls were all about shopping. It looked just like what I've seen on tv.