[GG] Hungary for Four

Hungary

I think it was 12 or 13 hours by train from Sarajevo to Budapest. With optimism and anticipation we looked forward to watching the scenery of Bosnia-Herzegovina become Hungary right outside our window. If one would try to find additional positives in this experience it is that we had a compartment to ourselves and there weren't many passengers on the train. Hmmm ...a clue,perhaps?. The window in the compartment opened & if we weighted it with a back pack, it stayed open, another positive. We had food to eat: a lunch of meat & cheese sandwiches, graciously packed by the Boutique Old Town Hotel. That was certainly another positive. We wouldn't have to change trains, another positive since it meant we could spread out and fully relax for the entire trip – sing, play games, read, sleep, just about anything our hearts desired.

So what could possibly go wrong? Three words which could turn anticipation into regret, joy into misery: No Air Conditioning. It was a hot, still day and the temperature in the train climbed with the rising sun, then lingered like the air in a hot oven, even as the sun relaxed from its zenith. We baked. We soaked and sizzled in our own sweat. It had to have been over 100° on the train. For me there was no singing, no laughter, just breathing the hot still air since that is all there was. For hours. And hours. And hours.

About an hour before reaching Budapest, our train linked up with a new car...one that was air conditioned. It was almost full but we managed to get our stuff together and get into the new car for whatever time we had left. And then we were in Budapest and our happy tribe of three became four, as we welcomed new blood and fresh conversation into the mix.

We spent 5 nights in Budapest which actually means we had 4 days to explore it. The days were filled with exploring cafes, museums, monument parks, and the baths. The baths are big, public swimming pools which vary in temperature, mineral content, and size. There are pools with currents. Pools with jets and bubbles and pools with waves. In addition there are saunas, jacuzzis, and an opportunity for massage. It is an all day event for many. They bring picnic lunches or eat at one of the cafes on site. They drink wine or beer. And always, they smoke. Bathing attire is typically speedos for the men and bikinis for the women and if you don't bring your own, you can rent one. We took advantage of massage and the pools, but frankly, it just wasn't my cup of tea. Too public? Perhaps. Too dirty? Definitely. Left over picnic stuff littered the ground; cigarette butts were ground into the grout of the tiles. Icky.

Budapest's most striking building is undoubtedly the Parliament Building sitting on the Pest side across the Danube from Buda.. Buda has a palace, museum, citadel, and a funicular. Pest has all the life and excitement including more museums, trendy restaurants, lots of shopping, and of course, Parliament. We quickly learned the metro and tram lines, a necessity for this city which is big, very big.

One evening we enjoyed a concert held in St. Micheal’s church, an ensemble of string instruments playing a variety of Vivaldi and Mozart. The acoustics in the church were wonderful and the experience was very relaxing and memorable. Afterward, we enjoyed a dinner like so many, open air restaurant perfect for people watching, shared food so that we can experience everything. In Hungary we enjoyed the cold fruit soups, goulash, and meat pies. We tried various beers (actually enjoyed raspberry and strawberry beer), unicum (ugh) and unicum next (yummy), becherovca (which we already knew from Poland...or was it Czech Republic...maybe Slovenia? This is what happens with so many countries: somethings blend).

We left Budapest for a day trip to Szentendre, a cute, traditional small town about 45 minutes by train. As we left Budapest, the countryside, though littered with small houses, was beautiful with small, rolling green hills. We followed a tributary of the Danube. Szentendre is very charming with cobblestone, winding streets, pretty whitewashed homes with flower pots and flower baskets on the windows.. Several streets are devoted to souvenirs, but again, we browse but do not buy. Anything we buy we have to carry and right now we are carrying quite enough. We returned to Budapest via the ferry, our chance to experience the river.

The next day we headed northeast to Eger, about 2 hours by train and a world of difference from Budapest. This is also a very charming town of winding cobblestone streets and public squares and lots and lots of sidewalk restaurants. Hotel Romantik welcomes us with a glass of wine in the garden, sort of priming the pump if you will. since this area is known for its wine. One of its more famous wines, Egrit Bekavir, I remember from my college days. It is just as bad today as it was then. There were some wines we did enjoy: Shri Leanyka – White; Egri Muscat Ottonel – White

As all good medieval towns on our trek through Eastern Europe do, Eger has a castle on a hill, a main square, and tradition, We arrive by train and walk 20 minutes into town, quickly charmed by cobblestone streets, winding lanes, and pastel painted buildings. July is a month of festivals and we have arrived on the first day of their 500 year anniversary. Many of the townspeople are dressed in period costumes. They are roasting a pig in the square. The stage is set and this all resembles a real Renaissance Fair. While three go off to enjoy the baths of Eger, I stay to enjoy the festivities and climb the hill to the castle. The costumes and folk dancing are exceptional and I enjoy the music.

Our time in Hungary has been spent and it is time to head to Romania. We say “goodbye” to our fourth and distract our sadness for his departure by seeing Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows at the movie theater. Then it's onto the train for our overnight trip from Budapest to Transylvania, Romania.