[GG] Splitsville

Zagreb to Split

June 29/July 1

An afternoon in Zagreb can be easily filled with a walk through the parks, a funicular ride to the Old Town, and visiting museums. The most interesting of museums I visited was the Museum of Broken Relationships. This museum features items and accompanying narratives donated in memory of a good relationship involuntarily ended by death or more commonly, a bad, very bad break up with little left but pain and anger. There were poems between a father dying of cancer and his daughter; a beating heart key-fob left to a lover, garters never worn, a fur coat never retrieved, runner's shoes minus the runner, and a well used ax. Some of the stories were funny, some very sad, all struck a chord within me somewhere.

11PM found us stacked one above the other like the fixin's in a paninni (Cee & Bee were the bread; I was the chicken fillet). We were snugly (very, very snugly) tucked into our 2^nd Class overnight compartment on the train to Split which would arrive at 7:15 AM the next morning. So for the next 8 hours, this little cage would be our home. We had no time to decorate, barely enough time to decide who would sleep where (my choice is always dependent on the volume of air available), before the train jolted & lurched to a start. There was only enough room for one of us to stand at a time. When one is standing, the other two must stay in their bunks. The beds were relatively comfortable and from my perch in the middle, I was able to enjoy much of the air coming through the open window. We were provided with 3 bottles of water, two sheets, pillow and blanket. The ride was actually kind of fun for me. I didn't mind the brief stops in stations along the way, nor the swaying of the cars that could cause you to lose your balance if you weren't careful. I loved laying on my back, head near the open window, watching the stars. The big dipper was right outside our window, a good omen, I was sure.

Arrival in Split was uneventful and we were able to stow our luggage and explore the city with no trouble. We climbed the 5 story bell tower associated with the Cathedral of St. Dominus within the walls of the 4^th century Diocletian's Palace for a full view of the city. With the exception of my fear of heights, I enjoyed the view and the exercise.

Split is a lively hub with Diocletian's palace at the center of sightseeing. Ferries, buses, and even the train start or end here for the Dalmatian Coast, although the train goes no further south. We have 1 night and almost 2 full days to explore. The Riva is the main pedestrian way along the waterfront, lively with restaurants and cafes.

Our little apartment was located upstairs and partway down the block from the fish market and across the street from the butcher. Apartment Diocletian. It was basic, but adequate with an air conditioner, a two burner stove, and a small refrigerator. We made a trip to the fish market and then to the open air “green market” to purchase all the ingredients we needed for dinner. . We had quinoa, tomatoes, zucchini & onions, a fish that I think may have been red snapper & Bailey thinks was tuna. Whatever, it was very tasty pan fried. We also had crayfish, with the meat sweet & tender, like lobster. The wine we had chosen in Rovinj, however, had turned to vinegar. Undrinkable. It would have been perfect to clean the pans with, but we drained it into the sink, so it could at least clean the pipes.

After spending our time exploring the Old City and enjoying the waterfront, on our last afternoon we decided we were all in need of some hairstyling. Cee & I got shampoos & cuts for about $20 each; Bee got a perm and trim for $50. Cee & I are happy with our work. Bee's perm was pretty limp and burned her hair a bit. Within 2 or 3 days, her hair was already relaxing out of the perm.

6PM and it was time to take the ferry to the island of Korcula.